Someone on a local forum we are a sponsor on was asking for the wiring diagram for the Inlet Air Temp. Sensor the other day on a G35. When asked what he needed it for (sort of a random wire to be splicing, and you figure if you’re doing a mod that involves splicing that wire (such as converting from MAF to MAP, you would own a factory service manual already..I don’t know, call me crazy), he replied that he was helping a friend install this:
The manufacturer claims gains up to 20 hp and 15 lbs of torque just by wiring this little device in. I don’t know about you, but it looks like something that Realistic made (exclusively for Radio Shack) circa 1985.
So what is this thing really? It’s a little metal box with resistors in it, that’s what. The resistors intercept the air inlet temperature sensor signal to the ecu, and “fool” it into thinking the air is colder than it really is. Colder air (even though in this case, it’s fake colder air) = more timing advance on many ecu’s, and viola, you get the “feeling” your car is making hp. You have 3 modes to choose from – street, race (give me a fucking break), and “off” – hence the tri phase.
I’ve heard Motec, Pectel and Pi Research/Cosworth each have their own versions being shown at SEMA.
Do yourself a favor – save your money. Or if you really have $180 burning a hole in your pocket – donate it to your favorite charity, take your girl out for a nice dinner, or maybe go get some lapdances.
Filling in for Felipe, who we all hope has a speedy recovery.
I’ll tell you what, it’s a kickass time to be an F1 fan and be alive during this time period.
The Champ is here!!!
Old news for a concept car I know. I just wanted to state that I see a lot of design cues stolen borrowed from the Aston Matin One 77.
I’m actually not sure which one was designed first. I’m assuming the One 77 since it is already in production.
Cool car nonetheless.
One set in stock and ready to go. 18×8.5 +45, 5-100 bronze. Perfect for the Subaru guys (WRX, 2004 STi, Legacy, etc)
A once in a lifetime chance to get a rare, genuine set of wheels at an amazing price!.
Priced to move at $1479 shipped in the 48 states! To order, just give us a call at (631)863-3820, or paypal to email@example.com.
I don’t know where the onslaught of Porsche material came from recently, but I’m not one to complain. Here is another sick 993.
Fresh off the release of the analog wideband gauge a couple of months ago, AEM is now rolling out the 2 latest analog gauges – Boost and EGT. These are packed full of features, but at a very attractive price.
• Adjustable backlighting via a dial on the back of the gauge (7 colors, user selectable)
• Available in white or black gauge faces
• Includes black and silver interchangeable bezels
• 320 degree viewing area for unsurpassed resolution
• EGT gauge includes high quality K-Type Thermocouple sensor
• Boost gauge includes AEM 35psi brass sensor
• 0-5v analog output included for use with data loggers and virtually any engine management system
To order yours, just click here for boost and click here for EGT
Or, contact us for combo deals with the wideband, or gauge pods, etc.
Some of these cars have been extensively modified or sold since these pictures but boy did they look good then.
I love 993s but I don’t want to be super repeititve with our blog content.
By the way here is the link to Autosports for those who can’t find it
1997 993 Turbo-S
I’m not in the market for one of these at the moment but I can’t help but to drool over Autosports’ inventory. I’ve never actually seen a 993 GT2 cabriolet in person before. This thing is clean.
A funny thing happened today, well I’ll let you guys read the thread. Luckily for the OP he deleted it (essentially admitting he is lying and trying to avoid public embarrassment; thankfully the moderators decided to put the thread back up, but locked it, before I was about to get “in that ass.”
Biggie said it best in his song Sky’s the Limit:
…I’m sewing tigers on my shirt and alligators. Ya wanna see the inside, huh, I see you later…
The thread: Poser trying to play off his replica kit as authentic
The culprit and his vehicle:
I found this gem of a DIY on my350z.com… lol, GHETT-O
DIY – Rear compartment sound proofing
Sorry if this has been posted before…searched and didn’t see anything on this.
While removing my spare tire to insure proper inflation I decided to sound proof the compartment where the spare resides.
I used cotton bath towels mostly (along with some old t-shirts) and completely covered and filled in under and over the spare tire compartment. I believe that this hollow space directly above the muffler acts like a drum in some respects and makes a much louder booming sound while driving that is necessary.
I think the more large towels you can cram in there the better the sound proofing. Also once its covered by the lid and carpet you cant see a thing but you will hear a difference. Especially on rougher pavement. A side bonus to all this toweling is that if you ever need to actually change out a flat you have towels to kneel on and clean your hands afterward.
1. Remove spare and re-inflate to proper PSI.
2. Cover floor of compartment with towels.
3. Re-install spare and insure lock down fastener tight.
4. Cover spare and fill in excess space with further towels. The more the better!!! PACK IN TIGHTLY as possible.
5. Install spare tire compartment lid and carpets.
I think Black towels would even look good if you could find some.
Time: 10 mins
Cost: Free if you use old t-shirts and rags
I’m not making this up: Thread Link
I won’t leave you guys hanging. Here are some details about the motor:
Originaly a 1987 jag [motor], but most of the motor has been modified. Parts are scarce so I had to make most of them, which included coming up with my own cam profiles. With the assistance of crane cams I am the first person to use a dual pattern cam with the Jag H.E. v12, because of camshaft changes it caused me to have to build my own timing chain setup,idler pulleys, which I made externally adjustable.
Jag rods are a heavy 975 grams each, so I had the crank ground to use H-Beam 351W ford rods, total saving was 11 pounds off the rotating assembly. Actually I could of used a lighter rod, H beam rods are good for 750hp, but thats for a V8 (94hp per rod) in a V12 the same rods means I could run 1128hp which this motor will never see. From here I used 1.5mm Honda rings, with custom BRC pistons for nitrous. Compression came out to 13.5:1. Heads were completely reworked and ported. Aluminum flywheel and custom bell housing let me mount a 2003 ford mustang 5 speed transmission and clutch. So far I have over 1 year in the making of the motor alone and probably spent more money then the car will ever be worth but I guess thats what a hobby is for.
Dude gets my respect for sure.