Tag Archives: Mazda

Wiggle it – Just a little bit…

21 Apr

If you remember when the 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 was released, you may recall the rave reviews from the automotive press.  If I recall correctly, they called it the “Wild Child” in the Mazda lineup.  It boasted huge power for a FWD platform and enthusiasts were quick to buy and modify them for even more thrust.

Unfortunately, Mazda’s 2.3 liter direct-injected, turbocharged torque-monster was a bit TOO powerful.  How so?  The stock rear motor mount is very, very soft relative to how much power the motor makes.  Even on startup and shutdown you can see how much the motor moves around.  Hell, you can pretty much rock the motor back and forth with your hands while it’s bolted in.  Such a soft mount translates to unwanted movement that exacerbates wheel hop and torque steer.

In response, the aftermarket has come up with many, many mounts over the years.  Some companies offer several choices of stiffness to appeal to a broad amount of people.  The stiffer mount works better to limit movement and lessen wheel hop/torque steer, but that translates to a cabin loaded with vibration.  Cobb came into the rear motor mount game pretty late, but hopefully that means they have perfected what others have been doing for a while.  Unlike the other companies, Cobb offers one mount in one configuration and one stiffness…done.  While the competition has chosen urethan bushings ranging from 60-90 durometer, Cobb’s mount is 85.  To offset some of the added vibration, Cobb’s mount has several holes drilled through the bushing.  They claim that this feature offers the performance benefits of the stiffest mounts while keeping the vibrations tolerable.

Recently, I had the opportunity to install Cobb’s new rear motor mount for my 2011 Mazdaspeed 3.  Not surprisingly, the Cobb piece is beautifully machined.  It really is a shame that such a nicely finished part is tucked away out of sight.  It’s a pretty straightforward affair involving 5 bolts in total.  A vertical bolt attaches the mount to the subframe and a horizontal bolt attaches to a bracket on the transmission.  The transmission bracket has 3 bolts that must be loosened to swing the bracket out of the way for removal of the old mount and installation of the new Cobb piece.

Once installed, I was shocked at the amount of initial vibration while the car was just cranking to start – it really shook the entire car!  After reading about motor mount upgrades for a while, many people have mentioned that the start is the worst and that the urethane breaks after a few hundred miles once it’s flexed/loaded on and off.  I’ll admit, I was skeptical…the initial vibrations and idle were annoying but thankfully there was no drone on wide open throttle.

After some 600 miles and a short road trip weekend along lots of different roads, I’m pleased to report that the mount has definitely calmed down.  On a cold start, you can feel a bit of vibration during cranking but it’s nothing like that first start.  As a frame of reference, I used to have an Ingalls engine torque mount on my old 2006 Civic SI and the vibration during start-up is very similar.  In fact, I really don’t notice the mount at all except during start-up and if I blip the throttle at idle while stopped (which is super-douchey anyway).  Nothing in the cabin rattles at idle with or without the AC and there is no squeaking or rattling while shifting or loading the car with power.  On the road, torque steer and wheel hop are very much improved and replaced with a bit more wheel spin as the power is getting right to the ground.

I’m really happy with the mount so far.  I’ll admit, I do have minor concerns about the longevity of the bushing itself.  Over time, I’m wondering if the drilled sections of the urethane may crack with the constant flexing.  I’ll inspect the bushing itself and check that the mount is properly torqued during oil changes.

As a sidenote, this mount fits all 2007-2013 Mazdaspeed 3’s as well as Ford’s new Focus ST (not surprising considering how many OEM parts on my car are marked “FOMOCO”).

 

IMG_0758 IMG_0761

Advertisements

Gran Turismo Omologato

14 Feb

One of Mazda’s 1990 LeMans entry

20130214-080148.jpg

Green Means Go!

26 Jan

daytona24hourrolexstartgreenflaf

And it’s off! The official start to the North American motorsport season is now upon us, with the Rolex 24 Hour Grand Am Race starting about an hour ago. This is the 51st running of the world famous race, and offers one of the most diverse fields in all of motorsports. This year, a new class debuts, called the GX class. While it’s only got 6 cars for it’s inaugural year, it is unique, and should become more prominent in the near future. It’s purpose is to basically feature technologies not currently utilized by the Prototype or GT class cars. To that end, alternative fuels are the initial technologies making their debut. But rumors are abound if we will see alternative chassis types (such as SUV’s!) in future events. Time will tell. This class sees Mazda’s competition debut of their SkyActiv twin turbo diesel engines installed into the new body, very attractive 6 series sedan. Mazda claims 63% of the engine parts are bone stock, production parts that will be identical to those in the street car when they hit the market later this year. The other are the Porsche Cayman. You can see the class rules for GX below:

daytonagxclassrules2013

We will do some features on a few of the cars in the GT and DP class throughout the race, which ends at 3:30 PM EST tomorrow

Braid Wheels – Classic Series

10 Jan

There is a very obvious renaissance going on with older cars nowadays. Lots of people are re-discovering that old imports are very, very cool cars to mod. Whether your doing a period correct version, or a resto-mod blending modern with classic, you need a cool set of wheels to really finish it. For all those out there with a classic Datsun, Mazda, Toyota, Mini, Lotus, Ford, you name it – we got ya covered!

Braid’s Classic Series are an example of their ever expanding lineup. Unlike many modern brands, Braid hasn’t forgotten the classic cars. The combination of size/offset/width/color is literally whatever you can dream up. These come in sizes ranging from 13 inch to 15 inch, and widths ranging from 4.5 inch to 15 inch.

Standard color is white, gloss black, satin black, gold, silver, red, anthracite, etc,. Custom colors are available. (+$30). Serie 1 RC and Serie 2 RC can be made with machined spoke face, (+$12). Machining is standard for gold finish. Standard rim finish is anodised silver. Rims can also be polished (+$10), or painted (inner +$10, outer +$15).

Screws can be finished any standard color (+$12), hidden or semi-hidden with some exceptions.

Except for Serie 4 RC, all Classic wheels are available with or without center caps without extra charge except Serie 4 RC wheels which are made with Blind Centres. This means they don’t have a through hole but a BRAID sticker in the solid centre.

Standard offset range -100 to +100. All wheels are made hubcentric with steel bolt hole inserts

Any questions you have, let us know! email z1sales@z1auto.com or call (631)863-3820

Recycling Never Looked so Good

25 Jun

Back in the winter, Jon traded in his Civic Si and picked up a 2011 Mazdaspeed 3. Since that time, some tasteful mods have been added, but nothing crazy, as the car is already a ton of fun stock. Though he managaged to sell all the mods from the Civic, one thing is making a reappearance – the wheels! Rays 57F (forged) in 18×8.5, this time wearing 245 inch Sumitomo HTRZIII. She’s sittin on H&R springs for those interested. Since these wheels aren’t made anymore, and they were paid for long ago, it only made sense to reuse them on the new car.

Alphabet Soup

10 Jun

SSR SP3 + MS3 = NFC (Nice Freakin’ Car)

Mazda Miata Complete Timing Belt Kits

14 Apr

Spring is here, and before long its going to be top down weather. As we all know, timing belts are a maintenance item on these cars, and to ensure your Miata runs strong all year long without catastrophy, we have put together our Complete Timing Belt Kit. This kit includes EVERYTHING. No corners cut, nothing skipped, nothing optional. It literally includes everything you or your mechanic will need to do the full, complete timing belt job, and know that you’ll be safe.

Our kits include:

Timing Belt, Tensioner Pulley, Tension Spring, Idler Pulley, Thermostat, Thermostat Gasket, Front Crank Seal, Cam Seals, Water Pump with Gaskets, Valve Cover Gasket, 2 Cam Seals, Water Pipe O-Ring, Alternator Belt, and Power Steering / Air Conditioner Belts (as required).

Shop around, no one else’s kit is as complete!!!!

Pricing – that’s the best part!!! $185 shipped in the 48 states, $205 shipped to Alaska, Hawaii and Puerto Rico. Located outside of the US? No problem! Just contact us with your full, complete address and we’ll get back to you with the shipping quote!

To order, just give us a call at (631)863-3820!!!

New Addition to the Family

23 Jan

Jonathan just picked this up a few days ago, after trading in his ’06 Civic Si. Should be fun…some mods already on order 🙂

I was in it the other night – very quick car, great midrange punch, very, very nice interior. I was especially impressed with the quality of materials and overall layout – it’s nice, regardless of price. This one is loaded with everything. HID’s (with the cool turning headlights), Navi, Bose – the works. Congrats Jon, shiny side up!

Powergrid Endlinks for your Porsche, BMW, Corvette, and More!

12 Jan

We’ve been offering the Powergrid endlinks for the 350Z and G35 for years. Google it, you’ll find out what everyone else already knows. That if you want the best endlink on the market, you found ’em. Well, we’re now carrying them for your Porsche as well.

This is why they are important, what they do, and why you want ’em:

The endlinks connect your swaybar to your the rest of your suspension. As the swaybar moves during a turn (or technically, resists moving), the endlinks job is to keep the bar parallel to the ground. Whether you have stock swaybars or aftermarket, the harder you push your car, the more prone your stock links are towards snapping, or breaking. Many modern day cars use links that are made of cheap stamped steel, and many are even plastic! They are designed to be used with softer stock spring rates, and less grippy tires than true enthusiasts tend to use. As you increase the grip of the car, the endlink is placed under greater strain to control that swaybar. The same holds true when you’re fitting larger diameter, and adjustable swaybars. These stiffer bars place greater load on the endlink and those stock endlinks were never designed with that force in mind. The second thing to consider is when fitting lowering springs or aftermarket coilovers. As you adjust the height of your car, you can often cause your swaybar to change position. That means during the compression stroke of the suspension, the stock swaybar can be limited in its movement (aka binding), which vastly reduces the ability of the bar to do it’s job. For those with coilovers, this becomes even more important if you’re looking to cornerweight your car. Having an adjustable endlink such as this allows you to adjust swaybar preload, and that translates into more effective cornerbalancing results and more effective swaybar tuning.

Applications – tons! If you’ve got a performance car, we probably have an application for you.

Porsche:

BMW: E30 (M3), E24, E28, E34, E39, E46 M3, E90, E60
Acura TSX
Audi TT
Cadillac CTS
Cadillac XLR
Corvette
Cobalt
Dodge Charger
Infiniti G35
Mini Cooper
Mazda 3, 6, Miata
Mazdaspeed 3 and 6
Mazda RX8
Nissan 350Z
Porsche 911, Boxster and Cayman
Scion TC
Toyota Supra
Toyota Celica
Toyota Corolla
VW GTI
VW Eos
VW Jetta

And we’re always looking to add more! These endlinks aren’t cheap to buy because they aren’t cheap to make. They use genuine THK components (THK is an OEM automotive supplier to tons of manufacturers). They don’t use hardware store heim joints like so many others out there. Those start out great and in short order tend to get very noisy as they are exposed to the elements, and accumulate dirt, sand, moisture, salt, etc. These endinks are different. They offer the articulation (ability for the endlink head to rotate, thus keeping the swaybar in the correct position), but are fully sealed. Never will require any maintenance – no grease, no cleaning, nothing!

Weds SA-60M AND SA-55M Photos

18 Dec

Just got these emailed over from Weds North America.

The Sa-60Ms will not be released until February ’11 but we are currently accepting preorders for February ’11 delivery.

Moonface Racing Folding Tow Hooks Now Available in New Colors

24 Oct

Available for these cars:

Z33(nismo). Z34(nismo), R35, V35, V36, AP1/AP2, CZ4A, GDB, GRB, SE3P, NCEC

Available in these colors:

RED, YELLOW, BLUE, WHITE-PEARL, ORANGE-PEARL, PINK-PEARL, GREEN-PEARL, SILVER, DARK-METALLIC, CHROME

Contact us for pricing and availability!

Who doesn’t love a FD3S that’s actually running? ;)

24 Mar

FDs are sooo cool!

Yummy…

5 Aug

You guys know how I love SP1s

Stand back, don't get your head bust...

Stand back, don't get ya head bust...

V12 Mazda Miata

27 Jul

🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂

DSC01747

I won’t leave you guys hanging. Here are some details about the motor:

Originaly a 1987 jag [motor], but most of the motor has been modified. Parts are scarce so I had to make most of them, which included coming up with my own cam profiles. With the assistance of crane cams I am the first person to use a dual pattern cam with the Jag H.E. v12, because of camshaft changes it caused me to have to build my own timing chain setup,idler pulleys, which I made externally adjustable.
Jag rods are a heavy 975 grams each, so I had the crank ground to use H-Beam 351W ford rods, total saving was 11 pounds off the rotating assembly. Actually I could of used a lighter rod, H beam rods are good for 750hp, but thats for a V8 (94hp per rod) in a V12 the same rods means I could run 1128hp which this motor will never see. From here I used 1.5mm Honda rings, with custom BRC pistons for nitrous. Compression came out to 13.5:1. Heads were completely reworked and ported. Aluminum flywheel and custom bell housing let me mount a 2003 ford mustang 5 speed transmission and clutch. So far I have over 1 year in the making of the motor alone and probably spent more money then the car will ever be worth but I guess thats what a hobby is for.

Dude gets my respect for sure.

I really like FDs

25 Nov

I just have no desire to deal with some of the problems associated with them…

bkfd