Tag Archives: z1 blog

A New Boost Controller that Multitasks!!

8 Aug
Innovate SCG-1 Boost Controller with Integrated Wideband, Shift Light, and Datalogger

Innovate SCG-1 Boost Controller with Integrated Wideband, Shift Light, and Datalogger

If you have a turbo charged car, the 2 most important gauges you can install are a boost gauge and a wideband air fuel ratio gauge. In the past, this generally meant individual gauges stacked up on your a pillar, or on top of the dash. Let’s face it, that look went out even before the original Fast and Furious movie.

Innovate Motorsports came up with this thoughtful, intelligent solution. An all in one gauge that combines a powerful electronic boost controller with a wideband air fuel meter. It even includes an integrated shift light! Housed in a convenient 52mm (2 1/16″) body. The boost controller portion will control up to 44 psi (4 bar map), has programmable waste gate reference pressure threshold, has programmable solenoid duty cycle (with separate gain control function), and the best part, a user-programmable boost cut safety using Air/Fuel and Pressure as as data reference points!

The wideband portion is compatible with ALL fuel types, gives you the bility to calibrate O² sensor for maximum accuracy
has one configurable linear 0-5v analog output and gives you 4 channels of log-able data (MAP, RPM, A/F, WG duty)

We are offering Free Shipping to ALL 50 states on this through 8/15/2014!! Click here to contact us to get yours on the way

New Plug and Play Engine Management for 350Z and G35

16 Jan
AEM Infinity Series ECU

AEM Infinity Series ECU

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AEM’s Infinity series ECU is now available with a plug and play harness for all 2003-2006 350Z and G35’s with Manual Transmission only (will not support automatics).

This is one of the fastest, most powerful ecu’s on the market at any price point, with a feature list that reads like many higher priced units.

Full Drive by wire control, supports factory widebands on 04.5+ models, full CAN support (so your gauges, check engine light, traction control VDC all remain functional), programmable 3 step rev limiter, even the ability to store and cycle through multiple maps via the cruise control switch.

Click the picture above to read more about it, or to place your order.

High Society

2 Oct

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Best of the best on this 350z – Endless Racing 6 big brake kit, Zeal Coilovers with Eibach race springs, Roberuta Cup Kit (to adjust height on the fly), Esprit forged adjustable a-arms, and a bevy of Whiteline and SPL bushings. The end result is going to be out of this world, stay tuned!

Classic Teardrop

8 Jun

Early 911’s are very much in demand. Gone are the days where you could score one of the classic air cooled teardrops for used Tercel money.

Even though its “just” a 4 cylinder, this 911E was prominently on display at the Greenwich Concours

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R33 GTR For Sale

14 May

We are listing this on behalf of a good friend and client of ours as a private sale. Car is located in the Northeaster US, and has been well looked after and tastefully modded. Finished in Super Clear Red II, it features a Fujitsubo catback exhaust, Ohlins coilovers, Mines intake, electronic turbo timer and boost controller as well as Prodrive GC010E Forged wheels.

Asking price is $32,500.00. Delivery can be arranged at buyers expense anywhere in the world.

Serious enquiries can be sent to z1sales@z1auto.com

Teutonic Thursday

2 May

Some recent spots

Nicely lowered A5

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And an ’86 911 Carrera

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2 totally different cars with different functions, but clean and classic lines.

Lower Price on KYB Struts for 350Z and G35

17 Apr

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Through a renegotiation with suppliers we are now able to offer even lower prices than ever before on the KYB Excel G Shocks for 350Z and G35

New prices are as follows (prices are for the full set of front AND rear!)

350z: $244/set
G35 Sedan: $269/set (03-06)
G35 Coupe: $244/set (03-07)
G35 Sedan: $269/set (03-06 X model)

Prices are + shipping, which is $47 in the 48 states. Shipping anywhere else just email us

To order just drop us a line

Garage Life

13 Mar

While browsing JDM Ego recently I came across a post about a picture Jay had picked up from someone he knew in Japan. I took a look at the site and in doing so, realized I knew the guy too. Turns out he was an old school customer of ours from the early 2000’s when he was building his then-new bigeye WRX. We had sourced a rare Alles-Create kit for the car (still one of the cleanest kits ever!).

Robert’s site is Back From Leave and is an awesome place to check out some fantastic photographs from all over the Japanese car culture. He also sells the prints too via SmugMug, which is pretty cool.

Anyway I picked up a print for Jon as had it blown up and sent direct to his house. Jon had always been a huge Mazda guy, and I know how much he pines away for another RX7 project. So I figured this garage shot would be a nice addition to his own garage (where is Mazdaspeed3 resides)

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Hang Time

8 Mar

cardiffS2000

An S2k getting it on….

Strosek Aero Parts

8 Mar

We are pleased to be a direct dealer of Strosek components. They rose to prominence decades ago with their striking components primarily for Porsche’s, but have expended their base over the years. The pieces shown here are their collection of aero parts for the 2003-2008 350Z coupe and convertible. All the genuine article, NOT replicas! Contact us for details at z1sales@z1auto.com. Worldwide shipping is available.

(Subaru) Crop Circles

8 Mar

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Appropriate on a snowy day….

Let There Be Light (Titanium Inside)

6 Mar

As initially announced here, Tomei finally introduced their ultra lightweight Titanium exhaust and Y pipe for the 2003-2008 350Z. We just got one in recently, and wanted to be the first to show off the actual pictures. The initial impressions are awesome – the quality of the welds, the little details such as the etched logos, spring clips, and price, all combine to make this a terrific addition for the Z. No soundclips yet, as we’re still waiting on the headers to come in, so the engine can be installed, then to the body shop for paint (in other words, it’s gonna be awhile) but we will post installed pics and video as soon as we can.

Interested in one for your car? Drop is a line at z1sales@z1auto.com

Object of Desire

6 Mar

Porsche knocks it out of the park yet again. It is stunning from every conceivable vantage point.

DIY Installation: Rear Differential Bushing

4 Mar

You’re only as strong as your weakest link. To that end, there are many small changes you can make that will literally transform how your car performs.

One issue that plagues the Z and G is rear wheel hop. Some try to “cure” it with an aftermarket differential, only to find the problem magnified. The solution are some rather simple looking, but ultra effective bushing replacements. The Z and G have a rather conventional differential (aka the pumpkin, because of its shape…even though on these cars, it looks more like a squash) mounting system with 2 “ears” at the front and a single, large rear bushing. The front set of bushings are mounted into the pumpkin casing itself. The rear bushing, however is mounted in the subframe. All these bushings are liquid filled rubber, encased in an aluminum shell. OEM’s use this style because its reasonably stiff and strong, but able to dampen out noise and road imperfections. The whole rear differential assembly weighs about 90 lbs, so those bushings are under tremendous strain as the car squats, launches and turns. What many owners find is the rear bushing eventually starts to weep its liquid out, eliminating its effectiveness. The tell tale signs are a black stain on the rear subframe. The subject car here didn’t have that issue, but that does not make the result any less awesome. On this car, the front bushings had previously been replaced with the solid SPL units several years ago. The rear most bushing never was done due to time constraints at the time. But that’s what is being tackled here.

Step one involves using some PB Blast and getting under the car and soaking the bushings. This will cut through any surface rust that may have developed, and give the factory bushings some slickness to help in its removal. Step 1.2 starts with unbolting the mid pipe, and loosening the rear swaybar brackets. This lets the bar spin upside down, granting you more room to work. The pumpkin comes out without the bracket removal but you will appreciate the room when reinstalling it. Next, remove the 4 bolts that connect the rear driveshaft yoke to the pinion flange. Next up, unbolt the output shafts from the axles. The axles will dangle in place which is fine. Next step is drain the differential fluid via the side drain bolt. From there, unbolt the speed sensors at either side. Be careful! your speedometer and ABS use these, so unbolt em and tuck them up top. If you can reach it, use a pair of needlenose pliers and remove the breather hose at the top of the pumpkin. Next, you’ve got the 2 14mm bolts at the front of the pumpkin, and the rear nut that is “in” the bushing in the rear subframe. A tranny jack and a friend are very helpful here. 90 lbs is a lot and this isn’t something you want to drop!

Rear pumpkin with axles disconnected:

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Next up is the big rear cylindrical bushing. Some people stop the whole subframe and use the opportunity to also replace the bushings that mount the whole rear cradle to the chassis. For this job, we are leaving the subframe in place. There are several methods to remove the large factory bushing. What we chose to do is use is a traditional removal tool to push the bushing out. Others choose to drill through the factory rubber, then saw several slits through the casing to collapse the bushing. Both methods work, just depends on your preference and tool collection.

Removal Kit:

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The removal kit works like a plunger. You have a “pushing end” and a receiver. A bolt rides through the center and is secured with a nut at the other end. As you tighten the assembly, the stock bushing is pushed through its residence until it “falls” into the receptacle. Going slowly is key as is generous amounts of PB Blast. You must ensure torque is applied evenly to avoid doing any damage.

Stock bushing removed with the help of a bushing removal tool:

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Daylight!

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With the factory bushing removed its time to install the new one. We chose the SPL solid aluminum bushing to match the ones previously installed at the front. This is a solid chunk of billet goodness, and provides the strongest possible mount with maximum stiffness. Whiteline and Energy make urethane versions as well. If you go the solid route, a word of advise. A day before you tackle the install, put the factory bushings in the freezer. This will contract then ever so slightly, but will allow them to slide more easily into place. Leave them in the freezer till its time to install them.

To install the new bushing we used a simple mallet and tapped it in place. It’s actually quite easy.

New bushing installed:

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From there it’s a reversal of the previous pumpkin removal procedure. Make sure you get the pumpkin all the way squared up to the subframe otherwise you will never get those 2 front mounting bolts back in place. We found that by installing the rear bushing nut and tightening first, it “pulled” the pumpkin more into place allowing the front bolts to more easily thread in.

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Bolt the driveshaft up, then output shafts and you’re done! Torque specs can be found in this diagram:

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The results? Awesome! You will LOVE this mod. Even though the front bushings have been installed for several years the rear is the most transformative. The car bites down much harder now from a dig as well as in the turns. We noticed a slight increase in noise due to the fully solid mounts but its so faint it’s not even worth mentioning. Launch the car and that “hop-hop-hop-hook” sensation you used to feel is now just a squat and hook. Your axles will thank you……

With the affordability of these bushings, it’s on that list of “must have mods” for this car.

Carlos Sainz, a set of Braid Wheels, and a Victory

4 Mar

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Once again Carlos Sainz and co-driver Luis Moya won the Spanish Historic Rally with a Porsche 911 + BRAID BZ wheels. Braid are manufacturers of some of the strongest wheels for street and competition use, and are offered in a tremendous variety of sizes/offsets/widths and bolt patterns. Want to be like Carlos? Contact z1sales@z1auto.com and spec a set for your car!