Stock is limited to what is listed in this thread only
18×9.5 +20 – available in silver, gold and bronze $1635 Shipped in the 48 states!!!
19×9 +25, 19×10 +20 – available in silver, gold and bronze $1688 Shipped in the 48 states!!!
In order to make room for new inventory, we’ve got the go ahead by AME Japan to do clearance sale going on for all in stock AME wheels. AME is a division of Enkei Japan, and they make a variety of sports and VIP oriented wheels for a wide range of cars. All prices include shipping in the 48 states. For points outside the contiguous 48 states, please contact us via email or PM with your full complete address. All details are listed. No other sizes/colors/offsets are available, sorry. Once they are gone, they are gone for good!
1. AME Circlar Spec R, 19×10 +15 offset all around, matte black with polished lip and blue with polished lip available. MSRP is $3580.00, we’re blowing them out for $1699 shipped!!!
2. Circlar Spec R 18×8.5 +30 all around, gold with polished lip. Great for a G35/G37 sedan, or if you don’t mind running spacers (we have those in stock too!) MSRP is $3080, we’re letting them go for $1498 shipped!!!
3. FS01 18×9 +25, 18×10 +25 – bronze. One of the 18×9 is a display piece (had a tire mounted on it), the other 18×9 and the 18×10’s are brand new. MSRP is $2880, we’re letting them for $1145 shipped
4. FS01 18×9 +31, 5-114.3 – bronze and hyper silver available. MSRP is $2880, letting them go for $1250 shipped
Bronze:
Hyper Silver
5. TM02 19×10.5 +22 all around, gunmetal – MSRP is $3340, these are being blown out for $1940.00 shipped
Orders can be placed via credit card (just give us a call at 631-863-3820) or paypal to z1sales@z1auto.com
First come, first served only
Thanks!
These are now ready to go!
Koyo’s new radiators for the Evo X, 2007 + 350Z and 2003 + G35 feature full aluminum construction (so no crappy plastic endtanks like the OEM’s use!) and their tube and fin cores are extremely efficient. Contact us for yours, as they are ready to go!
Just received a nice urethane transmission mount for the 350Z/G35 (manual transmission) that I will be trying out in my car. Construction is very nice – billet T6 6061 aluminum, with a 75a durometer urethane insert. The sleeve for the bolt is already installed so it should be a drop in replacement for stock. We’ve noticed the factory mount has alot of lateral play to it, which contributes to a bit of a vague shifter feel. On the urethane one, the entire center section is filled in, giving it a much sturdier mount vs the stock one, which has alot of give (see last pic). The stock mount is about a 40a durometer by comparison. I am hoping for big things from this little mod, as it should make shifting alot more direct and precise. More on it later in the week when we install it and I can put some miles testing it!
A very rare car, in what I am sure is a very rare color combo! The only thing I’d change is paint the carbon side skirts, maybe just leave a bit of the weave exposed.
Got a big bunch of stuff in from Detailed Image last week. Hopefully can get going on this soon, as I need to do both the Saab and the Z, and Jon’s car could use it too
Over a series of posts, we’ll take a look back to where Z1 Performance began. We’ll chronicle some of the projects, and events from back in the day and share some old photos and stories along the way.
Z1 Performance, the brainchild of a few die-hard Datsun fanatics, saw Adam’s 1979 280ZX as a veritable guinea pig in a project that would strive to blend old school and new in a timeless package.
Mike was the owner of Z1 at the time and an experienced mechanic. Along with Billy (an equally knowledgeable tech) they had been restoring, repairing, modifying and racing Z-cars for years prior. They had the experience, parts and knowledge required to get this project off the ground. Together with Adam’s vision, they targeted the ultimate street car of the time; the 993 911 Turbo, capable of running mid 12-second 1/4 runs with a full interior, A/C, and stereo.
This ZX was not destined to be a trailer queen. Rather, it would be a fully functioning daily driver as comfortable cruising to work as it was on the drag strip. As the project grew legs, progress was made quickly. It wasn’t long before we were all spending Friday nights at Long Island Dragway for test-and-tune. The boys would have hours to make countless runs, note changes and results.
Phase 1 was simple: Turbocharge the higher compression N/A 280zx motor using OEM Datsun turbo parts along with a rising rate adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
Phase 2 required the stronger Turbo motor’s internals, a front mount intercooler (Starion core) high flow fuel pump, larger turbo and a programmable ECU (Electromotive TEC II).
Phase 3 would bring along a fully built motor, aggressive cam, massive injectors, larger turbo and intercooler plus loads more boost.
Once armed with the ECU, Adam scoped out the few dyno’s available in the area at the time and gain some experience tuning the L series for boost. We’ll have to search for dyno sheets!
Success wasn’t always the name of the game, and driving the ZX to and from events and testing would often mean long nights prepping and repairing. I recall one particular test session at LI dragway when the original N/A tranny finally let go…after perhaps one run. After a tow back to the shop (and a large bill), Mike and Bill had another tranny bolted up in under and hour and we drowned our sorrows with pizza and beer.
Through it all, we built not only fast cars, but solid friendships that would stand the test of time. While Mike and Bill have since moved on to other careers, they are still very much a part of the Z1 family and continue to offer their assistance, experience and knowledge in their free time.
Is it a prybar or a boost controller?
Likely waiting for an authentic LI Dragway hotdog in between runs
Sitting pretty!
There we go!
That's right, a brushed aluminum gas cap in '96. Z1, setting trends!
Compensating for something?
Now that's competition!
Would this be called "attack mode?"
Who won the holeshot?
Niiiiice!
On the dyno, after a quick stop at the airport for jet fuel! No joke.
Again...
All of it, impossible without this man (Mike). That hat was stlyin in '96!
The 4.3 rear is now finished, and in transit back up north! This was an adventure to say the least, and essentially represents a bunch of parts that otherwise should not fit with one another. Ben @ Puddymod sent me some final pics of some more of the custom things that had to be done. I figured I’d share them, just so you guys can see what was involved
On the ring and pinion setups, you have a crush collar. This collar is a use-once part, and basically serves as a base that lets you set the torque of the pinion nut consistently. Here you can see the standard crush collar, vs the one that had to be machined for this setup
Here you can see how everything stacks on the pinion itself – just gives you a nice visual to show where the bearings go
Even the shims needed to have the gear mesh so nicely had to be custom done
Because this involved so much custom work, Ben actually made a fixture to make things easier. A prybar is used to set the lsd/ring gear assembly into place quickly and evenly, and the fixture holds it in place
After the bearing caps are reinstalled a backlash reading of 4.5 to 5 thousands is measured, note the sweet gear to gear pattern
Total turning torque on the assembly is 30 inch pounds with 270 foot pounds on the pinion nut
And there you have it – the inner workings of the 4.3 setup. I’ll be using the SPL Pro Differential Bushings with this setup, and I’ll also be testing out a new Urethane Transmission Mount as well, which I am really looking forward to.
Once everything is installed, hopefully by next weekend if time allows, I’ll do some in car videos and post them on our Youtube Channel
This game is so massive, it ships with two discs to successfully install all features. Turn 10 studios has also added a drag race function for online competition and some killer new tracks (like the Ken Block inspired abandoned airfield for practice and some sweet Touge courses).
The list of improvements from Forza 2 is astounding – among them, the ability to swap motors or drivetrains independently. Want a K20 swapped Honda Fit? No problem. An RB26 powered 240Z? Sure! How about a VQ powered Silvia?
A bolt-on 370Z on the Touge
Massive visual prowess...
The new Z1 370Z? We wish!
Gus from Limitless Performance is one of the OG members on my350z, and has had his Z since new. Over the years he’s done lots of stuff, from a Greddy twin turbo/built motor (554whp), to suspension, etc etc. He recently switched up his wheels and they are sweet!!!
Weds SA67R in Blue Light Chrome 18×9, 18×10
First time I’ve seen them on a Z – great choice. Looks awesome
Pics were done by fellow Z owner Sal Sued
Great shot of a Shadow Sports Aero Kit beneath a Cherry Blossom Tree. This dreary weather we’ve had here in NY lately makes me long for a nice spring day already!
Dyno-Tune Versus E-tune
You know how it works – you’ve spent some money on a few bolt on mods and a programmable ECU. Now, you’re looking to get the entire packaged tuned for optimal power and efficiency.
Unfortunately, now you’re at the mercy of your tuner and you’re reliant on them to produce streetable, reliable power. We’ve all heard the horror stories of poor tuning for even the most seemingly simply combination of parts.
Back in the day, finding a dyno tuner in your area was tough enough! These days, it seems that dynos are everywhere and for good reason…dyno-tuning generates quick cash and the machines can be financed. But who is to say your local tuner is reliable, safe and educated? Do they know how to tune your specific motor?
Modern motors such as the K20 series from Honda brings even more challenges. Hondata’s Kpro (RSX) and FlashPro (Civic SI) are easily the most popular applications and while they are easy to use, the nature of the K20 brings it’s own challenges in selecting the proper VTEC point and cam angle according to the mod list.
This brings us to the topic of internet based tuning. K20 loyalists don’t have to travel the country to get a safe tune from a knowledgeable source.
There are a handful of these E-tuners in the K20 community – some are even using some pretty sophisticated torque graphing software designed around Hondata’s ECU’s. As long as you log on the same road each time (to account for road slope) you can get a fair estimation of the power curve before/after mods/tuning.
The attached graph reads a bit optimistically according the mods, but the road is at a slight downward slope. Results are repeatable, and graphs from logs in the opposite direction of the same road result in a graph that reads 20 peak hp lower.
A mix of street tuning and dyno sessions with a GOOD tuner is best, but E-tuning may be the answer for those in areas lacking in knowledgeable people.
A/F still being optimized in the 4500-5500 area, but you get the idea. Our 2006 Civic SI has the following power-mods:
-Vibrant Race Header w/ High Flow Cat
-Vibrant Gen 2 Catback exhaust (true 2.5″).
-K&N SRI
-Unorthodox Racing Pulley Kit
Tuned K20's with I/H/E commonly put down 210-220hp on dynojets.
We recently began work on designing a new, urethane transmission mount for the 370Z/G37.
The stock mount uses a soft rubber that is liquid filled. While it’s up and down durometer rating (stiffness) is sufficient, there is alot of play side to side. This promotes that rubbery, almost vague feeling things have gear to gear. The solution for us will be a direct replacement, bolt in, urethane transmission mount that has consistent stiffness for both lateral and medial movement. You will not need to press anything or modify anything in any way. The upper portion of the mount will be cnc’d aluminum, just like the OEM unit, and the urethane section will come preinstalled so it’s ready to put into the car. It will include all the required hardware as well as detailed instructions. This will benefit both the casual street driver and the more aggressive track driver equally with noticeably quicker shifts without all the slop.
We will be able to offer this in 2 stiffness level, comfort, and race. These are fully developed, designed and produced in the USA. MSRP is expected to be approximately $150.00 for the comfort version and $185.00 for the race version. This is the anticipated retail price, but final street price will be determined by dealers who wish to carry the product.
The above is preliminary and final design may change a bit. I expect to have the samples back here in about a week, so we can do some testing and then ramp up to production.
Thanks for looking!
This made my afternoon…
Adam
Kwame
Shaun
Mike Ko
Jonathan
chebosto